Simone Rocha’s Fall 2024 collection, “The Wake,” serves as the final act of a trilogy, exploring themes of mourning and preservation. The collection is a result of Rocha’s recent experiences, including her creative partnership with Jean Paul Gaultier and her research on Queen Victoria’s mourning dress. This collection presents a shift in tone compared to her previous works, marking a new direction for the designer.
The show, held at St. Bartholomew’s Church, exuded an atmosphere of solemnity and contemplation, emphasizing the theme of mourning. The use of delicate superstructure, corsetry, and boning throughout the collection symbolizes the preservation and protection of the feminine form. Rocha’s attention to detail is evident in the garment construction, with tie-detail nylon parkas, rompers, and sheer jackets incorporating elements of corsetry and faux-fur hip-emplacements.
The color palette featured predominantly black hues, reflecting the traditional mourning attire, but with a modern twist. Sheer paneling, crystal-embellished breast pockets, and tulle added elements of elegance and sophistication to the all-black looks. The collection also presented whimsical and playful elements, such as large stuffed animals and faux black fur figures, reflecting a sense of childhood innocence and security.
Rocha’s use of fabrics, including crushed velvet, brocade, and taffeta, displayed a balance of primness and sensuality, showcasing a unique juxtaposition of textures and emotions. The incorporation of eyeleted and strapped thick-soled oxfords, Crocs, and adorned accessories further enhanced the overall visual narrative of the show.
Simone Rocha’s Fall 2024 collection “The Wake” represents a poignant exploration of mourning and rebirth, encapsulating the designer’s evolution and potential for a new, empowered direction. The juxtaposition of delicate fabrics, corsetry, and playful elements created a visually compelling narrative, reflecting both femininity and protection.
Runway Analysis / Trend Report
The collection draws inspiration from mourning dress styles, as well as cultural and supernatural references, blending themes of death and rebirth with a touch of whimsy. The designer’s exploration of the way clothing reflects emotions and offers protection shapes the creative direction.
Color Palette and Color Trends: The predominant use of all-black looks with sheer paneling, faux fur detailing, and crystal-embellished breast pockets reflects the theme of mourning and protection. The inclusion of pale pink, red, and golden tones presents a nuanced color palette.
Print and Pattern Analysis: The collection presents whimsical and eerie elements, such as shaggy, warped-headed dog motifs with red beaded eyes, modeled after the Church Grim, a figure from English folklore. These patterns play into the collection’s theme of grappling with the unknown and holding it close.
Fabric and Material Trends: The use of light-as-air silk tulle in preserving garments obscures what lies beneath, symbolizing the theme of mourning. Faux fur, fine jersey, and lurex-shot knit reflect a blend of textures, while crushed velvet, brocade, and taffeta exhibit a sense of twisted primness.
Silhouette Analysis: The collection features structured and serious silhouettes, embracing a focus on the feminine form with amplified bust seams and gemstone embellishments. Balloon shapes and childlike dresses with bow-decorated pigtails and soft toys emphasize a playful yet structured aesthetic.
Accessories and Details: Embellishments, such as metallic flowers, lines of gleaming eyelets, and faux fur hip-emplacements, add depth to the garments. Accessorizing with large stuffed animals and adorned Crocs contributes to a thematic and storytelling element.
Market and Consumer Analysis: Simone Rocha’s Fall 2024 collection provides a unique blend of serious and playful elements, offering an edgier and more empowered aesthetic while retaining a sense of femininity. The trend appears to cater to consumers seeking a sophisticated yet artfully ambiguous approach to fashion.
This trend analysis presents a nuanced blend of structured silhouettes, innovative material usage, and a complex color palette, creating a narrative that balances the thematic elements of mourning and protection with a sense of playful ambiguity and femininity.
