Fendi’s latest haute couture collection, designed by artistic director Kim Jones, showcased a unique blend of simplicity and elegance with a futuristic twist. The aim was to create realistically elegant shapes using luxurious materials like vicuna, crocodile, and silk, accompanied by meticulously crafted embroideries that evoked fur-like textures or a spacey metallic sheen.
Jones drew inspiration from the futuristic legacy of Fendi under Karl Lagerfeld, aiming to create a collection that felt graphic rather than romantic. The opening look, a black strapless calf-length column dress referred to as a “box-dress,” set the tone with its spare and minimalistic design. The show concluded with a similar geometric shape adorned in silver bugle beads, presenting a striking contrast.
In his mission to showcase the language and materials rooted in the house of Fendi, Jones incorporated the iconic Fendi “bags and baguettes” as a jewel-like complement to the simple elegance of the collection. The standout pieces were the minuscule bags on chains with matching fringes, accompanied by chiffon full-length “flag dresses” in soft shades of pink, gray, and white.
One of the notable innovations in the collection was the development of trompe l’oeil decorativeness using embroidery. Jones and his team aimed to replicate the effect of fur without using real or fake fur, opting for delicate embroidered filaments. These feather-like and lightweight embroideries were showcased in various forms, including coats, dresses, and pencil skirts.
Having observed the demands of red carpet events, Jones incorporated a solution he described as the “shapes on shapes dress.” These slim, neutral-colored looks featured abstracted bugle-beaded silhouettes overlaid on them, creating an illusionary effect that adds intrigue and distraction to the red carpet.
Fendi’s futuristic aesthetic was further enhanced by the introduction of eyewear as jewelry. For the first time, Delfina Delettrez Fendi designed eyeglasses rimmed with diamonds and offered made-to-measure options by scanning the wearer’s face. The brand also unveiled small complementary earrings to complete the eyewear ensemble.
Kim Jones’ couture collection for Fendi exemplifies a careful balance between simplicity and complexity, creating a fusion of structural integrity and ornamental beauty. The collection’s focus on fabric-body synergy, futuristic elements, and meticulous craftsmanship showcases Fendi’s commitment to creating wearable, yet quietly impactful couture pieces. With its sleek and elegant designs, Fendi’s Spring 2024 Haute Couture collection sets the stage for a bright and inspiring future in fashion.
